Panzerknacker
2018-09-23 03:14:34
- #1
Good evening everyone,
I recently ordered a new kitchen at an Ikea furniture store and expect to have the individual parts delivered next week. I have already read quite a bit about kitchen assembly in general and about the items I ordered in particular on IKEA’s websites. Nevertheless, some questions have arisen in my mind that I would prefer to clarify sooner rather than later. Maybe someone here can answer one or another question…
I have dealt with shipping companies, and there were transport damages in almost every delivery. Do you have to meticulously document visible damages on packages at IKEA, or is that unusual due to the high number of packages and is it better to clarify this later calmly with the IKEA hotline? Can you also obtain the necessary replacement items at short notice and, if necessary, from various furniture stores, or must you wait longer for a re-delivery from the central warehouse?
I will receive several electrical appliances from IKEA and wonder how these are connected (e.g. Schuko plugs, open cable ends, merely connection terminals, etc.)? The devices in question are the built-in dishwasher Rengöra, the convection oven ANRÄTTA, and the ceramic hob MATMÄSSIG. Depending on the connection variant, I might have to modify something in the electrical installation (e.g. install sockets). For the hob, I would almost exclude factory-fitted Schuko plugs, since according to the manual it can be connected multiphase. Nevertheless, I would like to know in advance how the devices are connected, which connection cables are available and how long each is?
For Metod, the cabinets are supposed to be mounted with a hanging rail. According to the IKEA kitchen installation guide, the lower edge of the rail for the base cabinets should be 82 cm above the floor. Unfortunately, in my kitchen the tile backsplash already starts at about 80 cm above the floor. The IKEA employees were completely overwhelmed with my question about what to do in such a case apart from the no-go of drilling into tiles. But I can hardly be the first one to encounter this problem. Actually, I assume that the base cabinets can also be fixed without the rail. However, in the instructions for the METOD carcass, it looks as if the alternative fastening method without the rail still happens so high up due to the pre-drilled holes that the 82 cm height in connection with the cabinet feet sold to me is always necessary. At least it looks to me in the drawings as if the fastening hole is approximately at the level of the hanging rail. Can anyone say more about this topic?
What effort is required later to get access to the built-in electrical appliances like dishwasher or oven again? For the dishwasher, I suppose it is simply slid in precisely and then the cabinet door is attached to the dishwasher door. With the oven, however, I somehow lack the imagination how it is fixed in the existing cabinet or what exactly must be dismantled to pull the oven out of the kitchen line?
I am thinking about having the assembly done by a kitchen fitter for time reasons, who apparently has a lot of experience with IKEA kitchens. However, he charges almost 200 euros per running meter and justifies this by saying that the connection of the appliances is also included. To be honest, I assume that the connection of the electrical appliances mostly consists of plugging in Schuko plugs – and if the hob roughly corresponds to what I have experienced with hobs so far in my life, there are just a few copper wires to screw down and at most one jumper to be set for the connection variant. I wanted to install a non-IKEA low-pressure faucet in the sink afterwards and then connect the entire sink at once. I also don’t really understand why the basis here is the running meter, as it surely makes a difference in effort whether I plan all base cabinets with only 3 drawers or with 8 drawers. For structural reasons, the kitchen consists only of a single straight lower row (about 3.30 meters long) with 3 drawer cabinets that have a total of 10 drawers – there is no upper row with wall cabinets or extractor hood planned. Then there is the VATTUDALEN sink without a faucet as well as the 3 mentioned electrical appliances, whereby I will connect faucet and sink myself and can also do everything that goes beyond plugging in Schuko plugs myself. I would be very interested to know what price you consider reasonable per running meter under these circumstances.
I wish you a nice Sunday.
Many thanks and best regards, Panzerknacker
I recently ordered a new kitchen at an Ikea furniture store and expect to have the individual parts delivered next week. I have already read quite a bit about kitchen assembly in general and about the items I ordered in particular on IKEA’s websites. Nevertheless, some questions have arisen in my mind that I would prefer to clarify sooner rather than later. Maybe someone here can answer one or another question…
I have dealt with shipping companies, and there were transport damages in almost every delivery. Do you have to meticulously document visible damages on packages at IKEA, or is that unusual due to the high number of packages and is it better to clarify this later calmly with the IKEA hotline? Can you also obtain the necessary replacement items at short notice and, if necessary, from various furniture stores, or must you wait longer for a re-delivery from the central warehouse?
I will receive several electrical appliances from IKEA and wonder how these are connected (e.g. Schuko plugs, open cable ends, merely connection terminals, etc.)? The devices in question are the built-in dishwasher Rengöra, the convection oven ANRÄTTA, and the ceramic hob MATMÄSSIG. Depending on the connection variant, I might have to modify something in the electrical installation (e.g. install sockets). For the hob, I would almost exclude factory-fitted Schuko plugs, since according to the manual it can be connected multiphase. Nevertheless, I would like to know in advance how the devices are connected, which connection cables are available and how long each is?
For Metod, the cabinets are supposed to be mounted with a hanging rail. According to the IKEA kitchen installation guide, the lower edge of the rail for the base cabinets should be 82 cm above the floor. Unfortunately, in my kitchen the tile backsplash already starts at about 80 cm above the floor. The IKEA employees were completely overwhelmed with my question about what to do in such a case apart from the no-go of drilling into tiles. But I can hardly be the first one to encounter this problem. Actually, I assume that the base cabinets can also be fixed without the rail. However, in the instructions for the METOD carcass, it looks as if the alternative fastening method without the rail still happens so high up due to the pre-drilled holes that the 82 cm height in connection with the cabinet feet sold to me is always necessary. At least it looks to me in the drawings as if the fastening hole is approximately at the level of the hanging rail. Can anyone say more about this topic?
What effort is required later to get access to the built-in electrical appliances like dishwasher or oven again? For the dishwasher, I suppose it is simply slid in precisely and then the cabinet door is attached to the dishwasher door. With the oven, however, I somehow lack the imagination how it is fixed in the existing cabinet or what exactly must be dismantled to pull the oven out of the kitchen line?
I am thinking about having the assembly done by a kitchen fitter for time reasons, who apparently has a lot of experience with IKEA kitchens. However, he charges almost 200 euros per running meter and justifies this by saying that the connection of the appliances is also included. To be honest, I assume that the connection of the electrical appliances mostly consists of plugging in Schuko plugs – and if the hob roughly corresponds to what I have experienced with hobs so far in my life, there are just a few copper wires to screw down and at most one jumper to be set for the connection variant. I wanted to install a non-IKEA low-pressure faucet in the sink afterwards and then connect the entire sink at once. I also don’t really understand why the basis here is the running meter, as it surely makes a difference in effort whether I plan all base cabinets with only 3 drawers or with 8 drawers. For structural reasons, the kitchen consists only of a single straight lower row (about 3.30 meters long) with 3 drawer cabinets that have a total of 10 drawers – there is no upper row with wall cabinets or extractor hood planned. Then there is the VATTUDALEN sink without a faucet as well as the 3 mentioned electrical appliances, whereby I will connect faucet and sink myself and can also do everything that goes beyond plugging in Schuko plugs myself. I would be very interested to know what price you consider reasonable per running meter under these circumstances.
I wish you a nice Sunday.
Many thanks and best regards, Panzerknacker