Internal insulation with udiin, experiences

@ Mr. Dr. Hix: Interior insulation is not exactly rocket science! And the insulation system that the OP wants to use does not require a vapor barrier/retarder.

Sorry, but just because you say it 100 times doesn’t make it any truer. Interior insulation is still a problematic and error-prone area, which is why no one does it without good reason. Why exactly these insulation boards should be so unproblematic you couldn’t explain. The wall is cold, moist air reaches it, condensation forms. I don’t see how that little cardboard prevents it. Besides, the insulation effect of that stuff is practically nonexistent, so it’s total nonsense to go through the trouble for the minimal insulation effect and also risk mold problems. It’s much wiser to simply turn up the heating. Or, as everyone does, install exterior insulation...

And even if you repeat it X times, it will neither become more correct nor more substantial. You claim that a vapor barrier is not needed because the moisture from the insulation (and the seemingly incredibly important adhesive!) would be released back into the room air, but you apparently cannot explain how that should work physically. But you know what: discussing at this level leads to nothing. Let the interested reader form their own opinion.

And even if you repeat it X times, it neither becomes more correct nor more substantial. You claim that no vapor barrier is needed because the moisture from the insulation (and the seemingly incredibly important adhesive!) would be released back into the indoor air, but you apparently cannot explain how that should physically happen.

But you know what: Discussing at this level leads nowhere. Let the interested reader form their own opinion.

Sorry, but first read up on it. Ibaaa is completely right regarding the system desired here. You can also read about this from Udiin and other well-known manufacturers who specialize in internal insulation.

Nevertheless, I would personally always prefer external insulation if legally and technically possible.

Sorry , but please read the thread first before commenting on it.

1. The system requested here by the OP is actually advertised by the manufacturer as not requiring a vapor barrier. However, the same manufacturer writes in the data sheet for its product:

Basically, all connections must be dimensioned and perfectly sealed so that driving rain and other moisture cannot penetrate into or behind the insulating elements.

That means the same applies to these panels as, for example, to aluminum-laminated PUR – the panel surface is vapor diffusion-proof, but the joints and connections are not! Now you can try to seal everything somehow with tapes, pastes, etc., or you can make it easier (and the overall construction less prone to errors and damage) and install a vapor barrier over the entire construction. Either way, the system is not to be used without sealing per se.

2. argued here with the claim that a vapor barrier is generally not needed for interior insulation with diffusion-open materials because any moisture would simply be released back into the room air by the material and the adhesive (!). That is and remains generally pure nonsense and is still wrong even with regard to the system requested here!

Sorry , but please read the thread first before commenting

I have already read it, no worries. Other very renowned manufacturers of internal insulation systems, such as STO, also do not provide a vapor barrier in their diffusion-open systems if the internal insulation is correctly installed. You have contradicted this fact so far by claiming that this is not professionally correct and that a vapor barrier is always required. And that is all I was pointing out. :-P
That you can generally do without a vapor barrier in all internal insulation systems is, of course, nonsense.

If a manufacturer advertises that no vapor barrier is needed, they mean only that no separate (additional to the one incorporated in their product) is required. Not that none is needed at all.

And in the "fine print" there is then the note that the integrated vapor barrier from the manufacturer only works if you "properly install" it using additional components.

The fact remains: You ALWAYS need a vapor barrier. The only differences are in the type of vapor barrier used.