Insulation of the attic due to controlled residential ventilation. Is there enough air exchange?

Hello everyone,

We are currently building a single-family house with a general contractor. The drywall installer has just finished the attic ceiling and insulating the loft (controlled residential ventilation will be placed in the loft; gable roof; each gable side has a small window in the loft area; exterior walls made of Poroton, insulation + clinker).

Regarding the execution:
- Attic: Ceilings and slopes will be clad with gypsum plasterboard. Between the roof skin and the cladding, a 220mm (WLG 032) thick insulation layer with an additional vapor barrier is installed. The loft has tongue and groove boards as flooring.

- Roof: Diffusion-open underlay membrane, counter battens, and battens. The underlay membrane has an adhesive edge strip and is sealed accordingly. A UV-resistant drip edge strip is installed at the transition to the gutter. The eaves sides receive an eaves ventilation comb. The gable covering at the entrance is carried out on a weatherproof substructure.

- Loft: Insulation with mineral wool (35mm), battens with additional vapor barrier. Loft

Now my concerns:
The entire loft has the same vapor barrier under the insulation as was installed in the upper floor ceiling.
The following situation: cold winter. The foil has a lower temperature than the dew point of the warm air in the upper floor. I open the hatch to the loft. The warm, moist air from the upper floor flows into the loft and condenses on the foil. Is the air exchange of the loft with the outside air sufficient to dry the loft (according to the drywall installer)? The foil was not sealed, the exterior wall made of Poroton is not plastered on the inside. According to the drywall installer, this allows sufficient air flow. Should the loft windows also be tilted open in winter for ventilation?
How do you see this? Is this a typical method of execution?

I look forward to your answers!

Who came up with this? It couldn't be done much more wrong... Concentrating gaps can only lead to building damage. Glue the foil and plaster the walls. It shouldn't get too cold up there, if necessary ventilate occasionally or immediately install controlled residential ventilation.

1) So my concerns are correct as described?

2) If the foil is now glued and the exterior wall plastered, the air exchange with the outside air is massively reduced. How is the moisture then transported away that enters through a brief opening of the hatch from the upper floor?

3) Would a partial removal of the foil possibly be effective?

No liters will come now... If everything is done properly, any moisture will be released evenly to the outside. Suppose the foil is a brake and not a barrier. Moisture does not arise there. Set up lift moisture meters and ventilate occasionally.