Insulating the roof of an old building

  • Erstellt am 2013-06-14 17:25:18

Tanja87

2013-06-14 17:25:18
  • #1
Hello dear all,

we live in an old building from around 1930 and want to convert the attic (living room/bedroom). Now I have already gone through various forums to learn more about the structure of roof insulation – and I am now totally confused.

I will write down how I would do it based on what I have read everywhere... from outside to inside

1. Tiles – they are all still good – some would need to be repositioned and any larger holes can be sealed with mortar?!

2. diffusion-open underlay membrane -- I have already bought...

...The diffusion-open high-performance underlay membrane is particularly breathable and can be laid directly from the roll, directly onto the insulation or wooden construction. Through the special functional membrane, a high water tightness with very good diffusion properties is achieved. Thus a DIN-compliant full-rafter insulation can be carried out. Product structure:

Material fleece: polypropylene Color: white Area weight: 105 g / m² Temperature range: -40 / +90 °C Sd value: <0.02 m Exposure to weather: 3 months

this is glued with this special adhesive between the beams and then wooden battens come on top (so: beam adhesive membrane wood batten) where the membranes overlap, connect with special double-sided adhesive tape

3. Insulation wool 200mm, cut, stuff in

4.1 wooden cross battens for stabilization? I know that the insulation wool is clamped between the beams; but can’t it still fall down? 4.2 Vapor barrier foil (does it then also have to be diffusion-open?) The wall connections of the foil are also glued with special adhesive for masonry.

So, is this correct now? Did I forget anything? Any tips?

We are not in a hurry with the conversion, but we would like to gradually get the materials and inform ourselves a bit more...

Many thanks for the following answers
 

Bauqualle

2013-06-14 22:10:37
  • #2
.. my very, very hot tip .... get a good specialist who advises you directly "on site" ....
 

Wegener SV

2013-06-14 22:45:43
  • #3
Dear Ms. Tanja
1. larger holes - then the bricks are no longer good
2. it might fit, but see points 1 and 3 and the postscript
3. how high are your rafters? Built in 1930? I guess about 14cm, somehow doesn’t match 20 cm insulation. The rafters first need to be doubled and certainly also aligned.
4. install a vapor barrier, tape the joints and also the wall connections.
5. battens and sheathing

Have an on-site consultation first, preferably by an energy consultant or a similarly qualified professional. Money from Kfw (currently available at 1 % also for individual measures)
Then reconsider whether it might be better to just dig up the garden or something and have the work done by a specialist company. Thermal insulation, vapor barriers etc. aren’t just done quickly and you can make many mistakes. Such errors can then lead to mold problems.

Best regards Jürgen Wegener Expert
 

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