Installation of window/front door

2016-07-06 07:51:23

Hello, can someone tell me what to pay attention to when having windows installed or maybe already when ordering. In my rental place, for example, it is sometimes cold under the window frame. At my workplace (2013), all the large patio doors don’t open properly / get stuck. Total mess - how can that happen? The window installer came several times to adjust them and in the end said they can’t be adjusted anymore. (Strangely, many of my new neighbors built with this window installer and are all satisfied)

I also wonder how the insulation around the window/shutters is done in a KfW55/40 house, that is, how the frame is connected so that there is no draft. What can I pay attention to there? I haven’t found anything on the internet. Where are there usually problems? Aluminum / plastic / wood?

I am grateful for tips.

2016-07-06 08:06:07

Windows are complicated... alone for that a surveyor is worth it.
Which masonry?
Windows are screwed on, the edges are filled with foam, sealed on the inside with diffusion-tight foil and I believe on the outside rainproof but diffusion-open with compression tapes (it is also possible that this is only done with clinker brick)
Roller shutter boxes are insulated.

2016-07-06 08:15:19

Windows are complicated... just for that alone it’s worth getting an expert. Which masonry? Windows are screwed in, the edges foamed, sealed with foil on the inside to be diffusion-tight, and I believe on the outside they are rainproof but diffusion-open, treated with compression tapes (also possible that this is only done with clinker). Roller shutter boxes are insulated.

Arrange the installation of the windows according to Ral Din. As far as I understand, that is a very good standard. For example, no foam is allowed there but sealing tapes have to be used.

2016-07-06 09:13:04

Are you sure that no foam is used at all? I have difficulty imagining that between the masonry and the frame. In the end, someone still had to check it.

2016-07-06 09:25:37

: Google "RAL-Montage wiki". Then you will see that foam is indeed also used. The crucial part, however, is the installation of the sealing tapes; tight on the inside, and on the outside one that is diffusion-open. And not just "hide" the foam with silicone sealant.

Of course, instead of PU foam, a swelling tape can be used, but this is not strictly required.

2016-07-06 16:27:55

Thank you, that helped me a lot:

Ideal installation method
To achieve this state of the art, various manufacturers offer plaster sealing strips and joint sealing tapes for window installation. These are self-adhesive plaster sealing strips or sealing tapes that are glued all around the window frame before installation. The procedure is repeated for the inside and outside, and tabs are formed at the corners so that a connection to the masonry can also be made there. The frame is then placed into the window opening and wedged, then screwed to the masonry with anchor-free window screws (the previously used screw-in anchors ("installation anchor claws") form a slight thermal bridge). After the sash is inserted, the joint is filled with mounting foam, and the sealing tape is glued over this filled joint up to the masonry. The bonding of the joint tapes to the masonry should not be done in winter months with the self-adhesive layer of the sealing tapes (if this is also on the masonry side) but rather with a special permanently elastic and silicone-free construction joint adhesive.

Alternatively, the sealing tape can also be glued to the frame profiles only after the frame has been inserted and foamed. However, it can no longer be attached at the side edge, and the plaster of the reveal must then also cover parts of the window frame so that the sealing tape remains invisible after plastering. In addition, the mounting foam does not press the sealing tape firmly against the frame but it is only held by the self-adhesive layer. As a prerequisite for installation with sealing tapes, the window reveals in masonry buildings must be smoothly plastered before installation (the so-called "smooth coat," e.g., with frost-resistant construction or tile adhesive or fine thermal plaster).

according to Wikipedia.

As far as I understand, mounting foam goes between the sealing tapes.

I do not want any thermal bridges at the windows in my KfW55 or 40 house!
And if possible, to achieve results of 0.1 to 0.6 h−1 in the differential pressure test method.

Masonry: So far I have planned inside calcium silicate brick and outside clinker brick.

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Installation of window/front door

Becker84

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tomtom79

Legurit

Caspar2020

Becker84