Drywall: Crumbling Edges and Cracks – How to Fix Them Properly?

Hello everyone,

I am currently repainting my girlfriend's room but have a problem with a drywall that was installed some time ago. The wall has been painted before, but a lot has chipped off at the edges (towards the window and the floor). I'm not sure exactly what has chipped off, but it wasn't very solid and could be removed with minimal effort. Now larger gaps are visible. Since I don't have much experience with filling, I would like to know the best way to repair this. Is it enough to fill the gaps with filler, or should I install something for stabilization? I want to do it properly this time so that it really holds. What else should be considered to make sure it looks professional?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I see two different issues:

- I would cover the floor with a baseboard - that way you have a clean finish.
- I would also use a strip at the window connection because the work was done quite sloppily here - the panel was just cut straight and the rest simply spatulaed in the back without support.

Everything else will start crumbling again at some point...

I see two different issues:

- I would fix the floor area with a baseboard - that way you have a clean finish.
- I would also use a strip at the window connection, because it was done pretty sloppily here - the panel was just cut straight and the rest was simply filled in at the back without support.

Everything else will start crumbling again sooner or later...

Can you do that today? So, at the bottom edge, I can imagine how to best solve it with the baseboard. But what do you mean by just slapping a baseboard on the side?

So:

- I would choose the baseboard for the bottom as a solid strip - something white, available as a piece good (2,500 mm length, height and depth as needed) and then simply cut to size. Along with enough nails, white paint for touching up, and done. I would avoid self-adhesive, it doesn’t hold long on such a surface. The nicest option would be a strip with a substructure, so you don't see any fasteners from the outside. You can find all that at the hardware store.

- For the wall connection, I would do it the same way - but with different dimensions and actually more flexible and rather without a substructure - also available at the hardware store. You just have to check the dimensions you need in order to fasten it properly. That depends on when "usable" material starts on the wall (from when nails will hold). I would look for a simple angle strip.

For the pros: yes, of course, it could be done cleaner - but even a layman can make it look good if he works accordingly.