Adding a connected garage afterward - leave the cladding open?

  • Erstellt am 2017-10-31 21:32:33

ballerburg13

2017-10-31 21:32:33
  • #1
Hello!

We are currently in the planning phase and experimenting with floor plans, but now a question arises that already involves bricklayers and insulation.

We want to have our house built by a general contractor [BU]. They should also plan a double garage and include it in the building application, but not execute it.

We mainly want to build the double garage ourselves because we have already had good experiences with this and thus want to save a lot of money.

The double garage is to be built from aerated concrete blocks and either also clad with clinker bricks or plastered with exterior plaster (depending on how it looks on the house).

This would not be a problem if the garage were freestanding. However, the wish now is to attach the garage to the house if possible and have a connecting door.

Due to professional and time-related reasons, the construction of the garage by ourselves could only begin after the house is completely finished and occupied.

This would mean that several meters of exterior wall would have to be left un-clad for several months.

We have questions about this matter:

1. We have not inquired yet and are therefore asking here in advance: Would a general contractor [BU] even agree to this and hand over a "turnkey" house with a "gap" in the cladding?

2. Is this technically possible? Keyword: susceptibility to moisture
-Could the "gap" be protected/sealed with a special tarp or similar until the garage is finished?

The missing "insulation" at this point would, of course, be reflected in the heating cost balance. But would there be other risks besides the costs (moisture formation in the masonry, risk of mold)?

Sorry for the detailed explanation. Maybe this is not feasible at all and we can only generally build a garage on our own as a freestanding structure.

Thanks!
 

Nordlys

2017-10-31 21:56:52
  • #2
Idea. He should seal the non-clinker wall twice only with [Dichtschlämme]. Advantage. That would be sealed for now. Disadvantage, you then have an unplastered [Dichtschlämme] wall in the garage. Plaster is supposed to adhere poorly to that. But it is a garage after all.
 

ballerburg13

2017-10-31 22:03:39
  • #3
Thanks for the idea! I have not heard of sealing slurry until now. I quickly googled it and it looks quite promising.

How "nice" the inside wall in the garage looks afterwards is actually of secondary importance to me. I would even tolerate a garage without plaster on the inside. The walls should just somehow be light, even if it's only a white primer.

Am I correct in assuming that this sealing slurry does not let moisture into the masonry? If so, isn't it problematic for the drying out of the new building?
 

Knallkörper

2017-10-31 22:54:20
  • #4
Why don’t you just let the cladding go through? It’s not a problem if you look at a cladding masonry later in the garage. If it is, you can plaster it later.

For the garage roof, you need joist hangers or similar on the rear masonry of the house, or you have suitable supports made of reinforced concrete built into the cladding shell.

Last and perhaps easiest option: In the area where the garage will later be, Poroton/KS/Ytong bricks are built into a load-bearing wall instead of cladding. The area is plastered. Cladding continues seamlessly above it.
 

11ant

2017-10-31 23:57:05
  • #5
My suggestion No. 1 would be: limit yourselves to things that have to do with your wishes, and don't trouble the professionals' heads over execution details. For that, my suggestion No. 2: have the general contractor simply build up this one garage wall that is attached to the house. Then you take over at a much more suitable DIY interface.
 

ballerburg13

2017-11-01 12:10:17
  • #6
Thank you for your further tips.


You are right. A continuous facing brick would of course not matter (except for the slightly higher costs). However, the connection of the masonry would then be more problematic. Above all, making the whole thing watertight. The joist hangers are definitely a good idea.



Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, such details also affect the wishful tinkering, which we unfortunately cannot turn off.

Regarding your second suggestion: That sounds like THE solution at first. But wouldn’t that also mean that the builder would have to do the strip foundation and the ground slab of the garage as well? Then the possible savings through own work would be considerably reduced because I would definitely like to do that myself.
 

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