xola123
2016-12-20 15:22:14
- #1
Hello everyone,
our future bathroom is currently being built by us. The former bathroom was completely removed, including pipes and walls.
The wall in which the pipes were located consisted of a 20cm deep steel frame, which apparently does not meet any current standard. In other words, square steel pipes were welded together as needed.
We have now modified this steel frame as we want. Part of the 20cm extension remains so that there is space for the washbasin pipes and drain pipes. Where the shower tray (flush with the floor) will be, we have gained almost 10cm of space and thus a shower about 90cm wide.
The pipes have already been laid and empty conduits are in place as well.
You can see everything in the pictures.
Now we come to the point where we rebuild the wall. Since the entire house is built using timber frame construction, we also want to make this wall using the same method. For this, timber beams with a depth of 80mm will be purchased as sub-battening, which we will install vertically (spaced where the steel construction crosses), then we will attach OSB3 boards and on top of that green plasterboard. Insulation material is to go between the studs.
Here is the first question: vapor barrier – yes or no? The area behind it is a stairwell to the basement (not heated) as well as a stairwell to the upper floor (not finished).
Regarding insulation. When we opened this wall, we removed a lot of old glass wool, which was just stuffed in without fastening. It is from 1979, so it is probably no longer useful. Rock wool would probably be the better option, what do you think?
We will of course need insulation of 80mm thickness. How can we fix it inside the wall?
If we simply wedge it between the wooden studs, it will probably spring back at us again because the steel construction is still an obstacle. Would simple double-sided tape be enough?
Does the width of the insulation mats/rolls actually determine the spacing of the wooden studs? Or can the mats/rolls simply be cut to size?
We want a wooden beam at the edges of the OSB boards (tongue and groove) to fix the joints. The OSB boards are 675mm wide. That would mean the insulation mats/rolls have to be about 60cm wide.
Looking forward to suggestions and ideas. Thank you very much in advance!
our future bathroom is currently being built by us. The former bathroom was completely removed, including pipes and walls.
The wall in which the pipes were located consisted of a 20cm deep steel frame, which apparently does not meet any current standard. In other words, square steel pipes were welded together as needed.
We have now modified this steel frame as we want. Part of the 20cm extension remains so that there is space for the washbasin pipes and drain pipes. Where the shower tray (flush with the floor) will be, we have gained almost 10cm of space and thus a shower about 90cm wide.
The pipes have already been laid and empty conduits are in place as well.
You can see everything in the pictures.
Now we come to the point where we rebuild the wall. Since the entire house is built using timber frame construction, we also want to make this wall using the same method. For this, timber beams with a depth of 80mm will be purchased as sub-battening, which we will install vertically (spaced where the steel construction crosses), then we will attach OSB3 boards and on top of that green plasterboard. Insulation material is to go between the studs.
Here is the first question: vapor barrier – yes or no? The area behind it is a stairwell to the basement (not heated) as well as a stairwell to the upper floor (not finished).
Regarding insulation. When we opened this wall, we removed a lot of old glass wool, which was just stuffed in without fastening. It is from 1979, so it is probably no longer useful. Rock wool would probably be the better option, what do you think?
We will of course need insulation of 80mm thickness. How can we fix it inside the wall?
If we simply wedge it between the wooden studs, it will probably spring back at us again because the steel construction is still an obstacle. Would simple double-sided tape be enough?
Does the width of the insulation mats/rolls actually determine the spacing of the wooden studs? Or can the mats/rolls simply be cut to size?
We want a wooden beam at the edges of the OSB boards (tongue and groove) to fix the joints. The OSB boards are 675mm wide. That would mean the insulation mats/rolls have to be about 60cm wide.
Looking forward to suggestions and ideas. Thank you very much in advance!