Solid or drywall construction for non-load-bearing interior walls

Hello, I assume that the rest of your house is built with solid masonry, right?

Of course, it is possible to construct the non-load-bearing interior walls using drywall construction. These are somewhat cheaper per square meter.

The connection between drywall (interior wall) and solid wall (exterior wall/load-bearing interior wall) is somewhat more problematic. It can happen that cracks form due to the different movements of the materials. However, there are ways to prevent this (e.g., paper joint tape). I would only have this done by a professional because it requires some craftsmanship skills.

Furthermore, in solid construction, you have better sound insulation and higher thermal storage capacity, which obviously has advantages in summer. And just think about hanging pictures.

Basically, I would try to mix materials as little as possible. Precisely because of the different movements......

Best regards

Hello,

We are faced with the question of whether to have our non-load-bearing interior walls built as solid walls or erected as drywall.

Who can help me and name the advantages and disadvantages of both systems?

The walls in the attic are often constructed as drywall, which has the advantage that in the coming years – for example, when the children have moved out – the room layout can be easily changed without causing much mess; there are no load-bearing walls in the attic – except perhaps around the stairwell depending on structural requirements.

The sound insulation is better than its supposed reputation. For those who do not consider a drywall partition to be a wall, the use of gypsum boards is an option – normally cost-neutral. If you do want solid interior walls, have an offer made for aerated concrete blocks – then consistently on both the ground floor and attic.

Best regards

One disadvantage of drywall construction is the drywall wall. But it can also be an advantage. To insert a plug, you need a drywall plug here. In contrast, when drilling into a plastered brick wall, a huge hole might break out of the wall (plaster).

Drywall construction is fast, inexpensive, and flexible.

Alternatively, the walls can also be double boarded. First a layer of chipboard, then drywall. That would be the perfect solution.

Later, when opening a shelf or something, just screw in a Spacks. It holds like a bomb...

Hello,
I happened to come across this topic. And as a civil engineer with specialized knowledge in sound insulation of residential buildings, I have to say that people who respond to such topics without expertise should rather refrain from doing so.
In the first response by E.Curb, apart from the fact that a professional should do it, everything is wrong!

Here is a brief explanation with sources that I wrote when a local contractor tried to explain similar nonsense to me:

Here is some reading material on soundproofing through drywall compared to KS and Ytong between living spaces:

With the LaSound board 12.5mm from Siniat, aside from the enormous advantage of the force-locked connection from the roof structure to the reinforced concrete ceiling, through the aluminum carrier system with the ability to absorb compressive and tensile stresses of the roof structure without risk of cracking (as happens with solid walls in the upper floor), sound insulation values of up to 67 dB can be achieved, which is in the inaudible range.
KS can only achieve this with 2-layer apartment partition walls with an air gap down to the foundation (which is not possible for interior walls), otherwise more than 10 dB worse. In the range of 40-60 dB, every 2 decibels increase in loudness corresponds to a doubling of perceived volume. So every 2 dB means twice as loud!

With Ytong, even at 32 cm thickness, only a sound insulation value of 45-46 can be achieved.

Now you know why all the big construction companies do it this way. Because it’s better!

Best regards....