Roof glazing winter garden wrong?

It is about a conservatory that may not have been properly renovated. All the glass panes were replaced. Originally, there was a 20 cm step at the ceiling glass. The inner insulating glass did not extend beyond the living area. Now there is a 5 cm step, the inner glass extends almost to the front. Originally, cross battens were attached there for the finish, which were removed so that the lower glass would have space up to the front. As a result, the glass lies 15 cm on the wooden beam. The wood is not painted, and in a photo you can see a little condensation (I assume due to the resulting thermal bridge?) (the new glass has been there for 2 weeks). Could this cause heat buildup in summer (risk of glass breakage?).

Solution1: The renovation company sees no problem but would, for a payment of 3000 euros, replace the glass again so that the 20 cm step is restored.

Solution2: The wood under the glass is painted with a porous glaze. Comment from the renovation company: "There is no porous glaze; moisture would remain in the wood, and the sun would destroy the glaze after some time."

Solution3: Place a 1 mm thick rubber band over the entire wood. (The renovation company also does not think much of this suggestion)

Solution4: Remove both existing rubber bands, instead use a 4 cm wide rubber band at the end of the inner glass pane. This should prevent any gap where moisture could be trapped and can return to the interior (this was the suggestion of the renovation company).

I assume that Solution1 is the best, but unfortunately also the most expensive. Should I order the glass again?

If the glass is to be ordered again, should it then be ordered with the more expensive enameled variant (the last 20 cm)?

I would be grateful for any tip!

Best regards, Michael

Complex issue

Just leave it as is.

Solution 1: The renovation company sees no problem, but would replace the glass again for a payment of 3000 euros, so that the 20 cm step is present again.

That will bring you pretty much nothing, except thicker sealing rubbers and a hole in your wallet.

Solution 2: The wood under the glass is coated with an open-pored glaze. Comment from the renovation company: "There is no open-pored glaze; moisture would remain in the wood, and the sun would destroy the glaze after some time."

I am not familiar with wood glazes. But it makes no difference that air is trapped between the two sealing rubbers and therefore condensation occurs.

Solution 3: Lay a 1 mm thick rubber strip over the entire wood. (The renovation company also does not think much of this suggestion)

What is that supposed to achieve? Nicely distributed air bubbles between glass and sealing rubber because the wood is certainly not 100% flat?

Solution 4: Remove both existing rubber strips, instead put a 4 cm wide rubber strip at the end of the inner glass pane. This should prevent any gap where moisture could be trapped and allow it to return to the interior (That was the proposal from the renovation company).

For me, this is also the only suggestion that brings some planning benefit. From the pictures, it looks to me as if the condensation is only between the two sealing strips. So remove one strip (in this case the inner one) and that’s fine. For me, the question is whether the outer sealing strip then necessarily needs to be wider. Statistically, this is not a necessarily required support.

Note: Assessment by a steel construction engineer – not a pure metal draftsman!

Where is the problem?