Rational which dampers and front colors

Dear ikeafans,

I am quite impressed by your expertise that you show here. Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to find the answer to my specific question(s) here and I am really hoping for your helpfulness.

Preliminary remarks: I took over my kitchen from my previous tenant 5 years ago, who in turn took it over from his etc. Everyone has made some modifications over time and I do not know exactly how old what is. The root of all evil: The originally installed oven was rubbish, or rather not well insulated, so it significantly heated the adjacent kitchen fronts, which after the initial peeling has now led to the complete peeling off of the plastic coating. Now I have a new oven and as long as I can still get the Ädel fronts, I would like to do something.

Question 1: Color differences fronts old - new?
What are your experiences regarding the color difference between the new and already existing fronts? I have a total of 10 carcases with doors (Ädel ivory white), 5 below and 5 above. Only the two left and right of the oven are really damaged. Since my kitchen is arranged in a U-shape and the oven is in the middle of one leg, with the "minimal exchange" of the fronts next to the oven, one side (one leg of the U) would be completely new. At the adjacent corner is the dishwasher, which looks different anyway with its stainless steel front.
What do you advise me based on your experiences?
a) Only replace the two damaged fronts?
b) Replace all fronts of all base cabinets (5)?
c) Completely replace all kitchen fronts (10)?
d) Is there another reasonable option that I haven’t thought of yet?

Question 2: Complete drawer front or split?

My kitchen is not particularly large and that is why I want to use every cm. Since I had 2 40 cm wide carcases and found them quite impractical to operate, I later installed drawers. These are ideally adapted to their contents, under the normal cutlery drawer there are 3 and in the other cabinet 4 drawers at their respective ideal heights. At that time I simply attached the existing cabinet door to one drawer. Now I have seen that there are also real drawer fronts, but I don’t know if they fit my perfect drawer arrangement.
Therefore my questions:
2.1) At what height must the drawer rail be attached in the carcass so that it fits the drawer fronts (in which hole from the bottom)?
2.2) Has anyone ever tried screwing the two drawer fronts together? Does it look reasonable? Is it properly stable? Or is the normal cabinet door still the better option (despite the annoying hinge hole which has to be fiddled with)? Thanks in advance for your opinions.

Question 3: Dampers, do I have Rationell I, B or H?
As already described above, I retrofitted drawers. For the new ones I bought dampers, which is great and I would like to retrofit the old ones as well. But unfortunately I have no idea which Rationell type they are. The fact is – the plastic fronts for drawers inside the cabinet didn’t fit, I cut them with a box cutter until they somewhat fit. Could you please help me identify – do I need to buy damper I, B or H for that? Here are some pictures:

Are my pictures sufficient for identification?

I thank you already like crazy for your tips and thoughts on my considerations!

Best regards from
Marie

Hello. 1) I have no experience with color deviations. I would order two fronts first and then decide whether they fit well or if the other fronts should be exchanged. 2) Which hole the drawer slides are attached to depends on H or B. For two separate drawer slides, you need two deep drawer slides. You are definitely more flexible with one front and inner drawer slides. By the way, with RATIONELL it is not necessary to attach the rails further back. If you use the connecting rail for the RATIONELL drawer slides, two connected fronts are stable. There are cover caps for the pot hole of the door. 3) RATIONELL B, but the rails are too old for dampers, at least the ones I see in the picture.

Thank you for your quick information. Then I suppose I'll order 2 fronts. Do I actually have to specify that I need the cover flap for the pot hole, or is it usually included?

Cover caps and connecting rails are only available as spare parts from customer service.

1 pair of connecting rails: 316348
Cover cap: 123279
Mounting cap for door as pull-out front: 117571