New UP installation

Hello everyone,

I am currently working on the electrical installation in my house. However, since I come from the industry and have very little experience with building wiring, a few questions about the implementation are now arising.

First of all, I would like to list my planning.

Since I avoid junction boxes 99% of the time, I have planned the following flush-mounted boxes for the installation.

Switch/button = deep flush-mounted box
Sockets = standard flush-mounted box
Network = electronic boxes
Speaker connections = deep flush-mounted box
Cable/satellite = deep flush-mounted box
Room thermostat = deep flush-mounted box

I planned the electrical installation conventionally, without relying on KNX. This had several reasons for me, which I do not want to explain further here.

Now the following questions arise for me:
The electronic boxes are very large in volume. Especially when placing two next to each other in the TV area, a very large hole is created in the 17.5 KS wall. Especially if there is also a box for the SAT connection next to it.
Should the cavity be filled again with mortar before plastering, or is it harmless?

Cable entry for deep flush-mounted boxes: To be able to use the full depth of the boxes, I wanted to feed the cables in at the very back. Here too, I sometimes have to chisel out the drilled hole or the slot very far in order to reach this point. Often, a lot of the KS block breaks off. (Cavities in the KS blocks) Should these cavities also be filled beforehand?

I have a few concerns regarding the statics.

Since I avoid junction boxes 99% of the time, I have planned the following flush-mounted boxes (UP-Dosen) for the installation.

That already makes sense. Do you have electric roller shutters? Depending on where you place the switch later (we have it by the door because it annoys me to have to walk to the window every time), it makes sense to install a "junction box" there. It will be plastered over later and won’t be visible anymore. However, it’s helpful for motor replacement – Kaiser spring cover on it and don’t forget the empty conduit there.

Switch/button = deep flush-mounted box Steckdosen = normal flush-mounted box Network = electronic boxes Speaker connections = deep flush-mounted box Cable/Sat = deep flush-mounted box Room thermostat = deep flush-mounted box

Do the outlets also with a deep box. They cost 4 cents more but save a lot of fiddling. Consider whether you don’t also put the switches in an electronic box. No KNX is one thing, but there are plenty of alternatives that work with actuators you can hide behind the switches. Wiring those with a deep box is still an absolute pain. With electronic boxes you keep all options open. The price difference is tremendous (€3.50 vs €0.20 per box), but how many switches do you have in the whole house? 30-40 at most.. So that’s about €150 extra and I wouldn’t want to miss that at our place anymore.

I planned the electrical installation conventionally, without relying on KNX. This had several reasons for me, which I don’t want to explain further here.

There’s nothing wrong with that.

Now I have the following questions: The electronic boxes are very large in volume. Especially when you put two next to each other in the TV area, it creates a very large hole in the 17.5 cm KS wall. Especially if there is also a box for the SAT connection next to it. Should you fill the cavity with mortar again before plastering, or is it harmless?

Rotband gypsum and fire away. I simply stuffed the whole hole full and then put the box in. Plan LAN/Sat boxes and outlets separately. So for example if you have 3 outlets, 1 LAN box and 1 Sat box, take a 3-gang frame and a 2-gang frame. The LAN/Sat connection boxes aren’t the same size as the outlets and it’s a torture to get them level. With 2 separate frames it’s much more relaxed in my personal opinion. Of course, it also has to look good to you.

Cable entry for deep flush-mounted boxes: To use the full depth of the boxes, I wanted to introduce the cables far back. Here too, I sometimes have to widen the drilled hole or the slot a lot to get to that spot. Often, quite a bit of the KS stone breaks off right there. (Cavities in the KS stones) Should these cavities also be filled beforehand?

If half the stone is missing afterward, I would use mortar. Usually nothing happens there though. At our place, we simply drilled a hole diagonally through the stone into the deep box with a drill bit so that we didn’t have to chisel so deep.

I’m also from industry and had all your questions not too long ago as well. A few more tips: When it comes to exterior walls, make sure to properly surround the box with gypsum, otherwise, there might be black spots on the walls because air gets through. Are you building new or renovating? Don’t underestimate the work in a new build. Especially to quickly fix something on site, etc. That takes quite some time.

There are airtight boxes for exterior walls. You shouldn't skimp on the €12.35. Also, you should use simple deep boxes everywhere, unless the walls are too thin somewhere. The cables don't have to be inserted deeply; it's even better if they come out as far forward as possible, then you have more freedom when wiring.

We are building. And have been for almost 1 1/2 years. The shell including the roof has been done entirely by ourselves.

Yes, where the roller shutter switches are not located at the window, junction boxes are planned. Hence, only 99%.

In the exterior walls, I only fixed the boxes with plaster and then foamed them.

No, unfortunately I have a few more switches/buttons. Alone in the kitchen/living room/dining room there are 20 pcs. Unfortunately, this is also due to the outdoor lighting, outdoor sockets, and switchable indoor sockets.

Don't forget the outlets for the access points when setting up the LAN. Ideally in the ceiling or at least at the top of the wall. The positions inside the house depend on the floor plan.